Ala Moana Courts Foto de Surf: 'South shore swell' por Lau

Masa

Only surf this spot when it's firing and this guy always in the right spot. Catches most of the waves he paddles for and only riding a 7' board! I want to ask him if he can give me some waves but my board is bigger than his and feel embarrass since he has to work harder Most of the regulars know him and just let the tiger go! Most of the surfers at this spot are Old timers who ride Long Boards and over the years has become an SUP spot! Most of the Surfers out here are rippers and when it's really firing the Pros come out. I have seen Tony Moniz getting shacked on the inside.Wade Tokoro ripping the lefts on his fish.Brook little still charging on his semi gun.Lance Hookano doing 360 on his long board. Also seen Rusty Kealana,Bonga Perkins,Zane Aikau,Dino Miranda,and list goes on! This spot is one of the best wave on the South Shore and changes faces with different Swell directions. One of the best sessions was the start of this 2015 year when Country was big and a straight West wrap hitting the South Shores The waves were like Country conditions 3-4. Occ. 5 feet Hawaiian. A lot of water,strong current,longer hold downs if U got caught on the inside. It was fun watching the regular longboarders and 1 SUP going for these hard to get into these waves. Seen most of them get pitched. The waves were country like west swell steep jacking A frame rights! Only the brave and experience surfers would go out and stay out! There were not lefts that day and some of the set waves were breaking in the channel and seen surfers turning around and going in! The wave must have broke their spirit! It was such a hard wave to get in that day and the only surfers getting in were the short boarders and of course the tiger! He had this place wired!! Catching every set waves from the west,inside and east bowl sections. This was the day you had to have a short board to fit into the pocket! It reminded of this place on Kauai called Acid Drops! What a day to remember! Probably never see a day like this again in my lifetime but who knows! El Niño and still got waves in November! Longest summer that I can remember! Awesome!